Pumori Expedition (8463m)

The ascent starts at 5,300m. In a beautiful base camp aside a small lake (water source, take water filters or barrels - where you can pack your equipment- and to clarificate the water -let sand to drop all night-). From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock hill at 5545m.


After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. To let your equipment and supply nearby. After this you will face a 500m. Elevation difference trough a 40 to 65 degrees slopes, 100m. Horizontal traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some 5m. Ice wall, one tunnel climb. Pumori has many rock and mixed climb (not to need rock pitons but take some in case for the fixed rope) and spring might be more rock falling. If you have good Sherpa, Could be good for spring season.
Camp 2- 6200m. Is located on a narrow ridge at the end of the section described before. Expose to wind and far from avalanches (but people say it has happened before that avalanches reach camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder 6500m.


The shoulder can be camp 3, but is too windy and not much gain. From here you cans see Tibet. After this it is presume that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you to a not hidden summit, but like I told you, You still need rope here because of many crevasses, Ice walls. Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards Tibet side where the crevasses ended just before a great cliff, but in the other side the snow two-layer difference for avalanche danger. You can try Nepal side and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff and crossed the crevasse. After this the walk to the summit is only walk & you can summit Pumori 7145m.


Normal route: This is the easiest route to climb this peak and most of the expedition climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like other mountains, there are technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you, you have take climbing Sherpa and who will take to Summit. We can arrange for you summiter Sherpas for the Pumori, if you have required.


You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorekshep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. Around the phase of Pumori. We set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. We set camp third at the altitude of 6,480m. Around the corner after the ridge. We/you can summit from the third camp to the top. This route has been used by former expedition to Pumori in every year.


South-West ridge: Only few climbers tried this route, as this is one of the most difficult routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapatar and goes straight over the ridge nearly 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical, I recommend you to use the normal route for the Pumori and you & your group will reach the Top. If you need more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. In this book written by Climber of Pumori who have been summit. They Sumitted by normal route.